Video Discription |
We’re back with another installment of Vintage of the Week. Today, we’re discussing the Submariner 16800. Shop certified pre-owned Rolex watches: https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex/
NAVIGATE THIS VIDEO
00:00 INTRO
00:23 Wrist Check
00:57 Vintage Rolex Submariner 16800
01:22 “Traditional” Sub
01:40 Dial
02:34 “Rich” Patina
02:45 Sapphire Crystal
03:25 Comparison with Current Production Submariner
04:03 Condition
04:21 Availability
04:49 Bracelet
05:39 Dial Condition
06:27 Functionality
07:02 Aesthetic
07:28 Rarity
08:13 Outro
Want to learn more about the Rolex Submariner ref. 16800, including its features and history? Check out our complete review here: https://www.bobswatches.com/rolex-blog/watch-review/rolex-submariner-stainless-steel-16800.html
Today, we’re discussing a rather interesting edition of the beloved Submariner diver’s watch, ref. 16800.
A transitional reference of sorts, reference 16800 occupies a space between the vintage and modern dive watch realms.
Traditional vintage Submariner watches are outfitted with acrylic crystals instead of sapphire, depth ratings of either 100 or 200 meters of water resistance, bi-directional timing bezels, and less glitzy painted hour markers instead of those trimmed in gold…just to name a few.
One of its predecessors, reference 5512, introduced the Submariner collection to crown guards and a 40mm case. Next in the Submariner’s evolution came ref. 1680, the first Submariner to ever feature a date mechanism on the dial.
Previously, the Submariner was only produced with a dateless dial because there was no need for a date while diving, after all. However, as popularity for the Sub grew among collectors of all walks of life, not just divers, it just made sense to add a date to the dial.
The first Submariner Date hit the market in 1967 and continued production for about a decade before it was discontinued and replaced by the topic of our video, ref. 16800.
With this traditional Rolex, the acrylic crystal that is so fundamentally vintage was swapped out for a more resilient sapphire crystal.
It also introduced the Submariner collection to increased water resistance up to 300 meters/1,000 feet, a depth rating that the series maintains to this day.
Another notable change was to the bezel. The previous bi-directional rotating system was swapped for a uni-directional bezel mounting, making it safer to track decompression stop and other diving times while in the water because the bezel can only rotate in one direction, never backward.
Rolex also retired the movement powering ref. 1680 and introduced the higher-beat caliber 3035 alongside ref. 16800. The 27-jewel movement boasts a 48-hour power reserve, frequency of 28,800 vph, a date mechanism, and a then-new Quickset function.
The Quickset allows the wearer to adjust the date with a quick twist of the crown instead of rotating the hour hand a full 24-hours to change the date.
Rolex only produced ref. 16800 for about five years, until the late 1980s when it was retired from production in favor of the insanely successful ref. 16610.
With ref. 16610, the movement was improved once again, this time in the form of caliber 3135. Additionally, the hour markers were exclusively trimmed in white gold surrounds.
When ref. 16800 hit the market, it featured a matte dial with painted Tritium indices. In 1984, the dial was given a modern facelift featuring a glossy finish and applied white gold hour markers.
These later-production ref. 16800’s look nearly identical to ref. 16610, with the primary difference between the two being the movement hard at work within the case.
THE BEST OF BOTH WORLDS
Ref. 16800 is highly prized among collectors in the know because it offers a design that is both vintage and modern, truly embodying its transitional role. The crystal exudes modern elegance, while examples of the dial still exist with a matte finish and without white gold surrounds, just like a classic vintage Rolex.
The example featured in our video is a matte dial ref. 16800, complete with beautiful patina and open 6’s and 9’s on the date wheel.
1680 vs. 16800 vs. 168000
1680: This Submariner was the first to feature a date mechanism on the dial and is often distinguished by an acrylic crystal, matte dial, and bi-directional bezel.
16800: The transition Submariner is outfitted with a sleeker sapphire crystal, a uni-directional timing bezel, and either a matte or glossy dial.
168000: The “Triple Zero” Submariner looks almost identical to ref. 16800, with the main difference being the grade of steel used. Ref. 168000 was the first Submariner to feature 904L-grade stainless steel instead of 316L steel – the current Rolex standard. cZhoHNslDiE |