Video Discription |
Firstly: the rattling and shaking sound is coming from the stuff on my desk, also the sub's basket moves a bit on the desk, the hissing and other strange sounds are just the air itself, because the front wave is not separated from the back wave, and also the air is pulsating in the basket's and manget's holes and openings for voicecoil cooling - basically these sounds are hearable at any free air sub test, so there's nothing strange sound comes from the sub itself, just there are the "normal" "free air test souns". Maybe just only the amp is clipping a tiny bit, so...
The reason why I made a video like this, because I didn't made yet a similar video like this 🙂 , and also I just want to break in a bit this sub before I put it in it's box what I'm planning to build for it. Amp I used in this video is my old Sony car amp powered with a power supply made of a PC PSU (details in my previous videos descriptions) - It can push into this sub roughly the 1/3 up to the half of the sub's rated power into this sub, so I cannot overpower / bottom out the sub with this amp even on free air too.
The box I plan build for this: 26.1 liters of net volume tuned to 23.9 Hz - it is a pretty big box for a sub driver like this, but the speakerboxlite's online designer using the complex computation model showed that it will have still ideal RMS power handling down to 20 Hz (reaching but not overpassing the Xmax) on it's rated RMS power, also in car (cabin gain) probably it will be relatively very windy at low 20ish frequencies 🙂 . So, will see that I will build this box for it, or something different, I am not sure yet... The box plans - also with descriptions: https://speakerboxlite.com/project-info/16697/tab-info . Second box plan: compared to the first: around 63-64 percent bigger net volume, little bit lower tuning frequency, much lower F3, and much clear sounding at high-end - like up to 100+something Hz: https://speakerboxlite.com/project-info/17549/tab-info . Third box plan: optimised with BassBox6PRO software - tuned lower like first and second box with slightly less net volume like the first box: https://speakerboxlite.com/project-info/17627/tab-info .
Back to this sub: as you can see, this sub is made of strong materials like other mid-, or high-end subs, have very-very stiff dust cap, pressed paper cone, stitched on it an acceptably big surround made of relatively thick foam, 9.67 mm Xmax, stiff spider which is uasble for DVC (this sub is actually SVC), 2 inch voicecoil with aluminum former, and also in my opinion very well designed voicecoil cooling "system", so in my opinion it will take it's rated power in a proper enclosure without any problems depsite there's just basic glue on the voicecoil, not the high-temp black glue, so...
The only thing I not understood about this sub is it's rated power levels. On the official website: https://www.gladen.com/subwoofer.html , and also on other websites, and even in speaker designer databases there are 250 Watts RMS / 350 Watts max power levels, on it's packing box there is 200 / 300 Watts, and in it's datasheet: https://www.gladen.com/GladenWooferPDFs/RSX-6_5.en.pdf - recomended power amplifier 190 - 760 Watts. So, for designing the box for it I leaved the stock 250 Watts from the designer's database, but my question is that what is actually the correct rated RMS power level for this sub?
Video parts:
0:00 - Photos
0:31 - Checking the sub
1:59 - Frequency generator test
4:55 - Music test
Online frequency generator I used in this video: https://www.szynalski.com/tone-generator/
Intro music: Life After Death by DJ Freedem from youtube's audio library. Music I used during sound test: Veorra - Run (🔊 REBASSED to 37-21hz & BASS BOOSTED 🔊) : https://youtu.be/oSfMC72MrOE .
Video I edited with VSDC Free Video Editor, link: http://www.videosoftdev.com/
Thanks for watching 🙂 8QMBYyGb5g8 |